Friday, April 13, 2007

She´s a Graduate Student!!

Ta-dah! Yup, it´s true folks, I really am a Graduate Student!! Enrolled at the Universidad Nacional (or la UNA), in Heredia, I am studying in a master´s program on Human Rights and Education for Peace. It´s still a bit hard for me to believe that I am a grad student....with all my classes in Spanish---what was I thinking?!! :)

Even though I am only a mere two-plus months into my studies, I can confidently say that this has been one of the most challenging and also rewarding experiences of my life. Part of Rotary International´s scholarship program for Rotary Ambassadorial Scholars is, naturally, to be a scholar for the year. The idea is that one enters into a year of graduate-level studies where education is furthered in a subject area that will ultimately better our world in some way.
With my undergrad studies in International Service, as well as my volunteer work experience last year in Chicago with two organizations that work--in both the advocacy and direct service sectors--to better our U.S. relations with Latin American countries, my interest in this specific master´s program seemed like it would be a perfect fit.
My program is one of two master´s programs under the auspices of the Institute of Latin American Studies, which is a department within the School of Arts and Humanities.

The program is comprised of five trimesters, the first of which I will finish in (a fast-approaching!) two weeks time. Our first trimester´s course load has been: Epistemology (definition: theory of knowledge) of Human Sciences, Theory of Human Rights I, Irenología (the study of peace), and Political History of Latin America. The coursework has been especially challenging, of course, because of the language difficulties. You see, being able to converse fairly naturally in Spanish and ´hold my own´ is one thing; studying at the graduate level in Spanish, I learned early on (like, on day one to be exact!) is an entirely different endeavour. Added to my language difficulties has been the nature of some of the classes--philosophical, theoretical, and, at times, quite abstract. I tell ya, it´s a lethal combo! I spend my nights up yonder on the top floor of one of the newer buildings on campus--which has a nice open-air, inner courtyard. The National University is one of the top two national universities (the other one being the University of Costa Rica) and has about 14,000 undergrad and graduate students.

Thinking back to pre-departure to Costa Rica, I remember attempting to logically envision what my ¨friends situation¨ might be like in the master´s program. Basing my logic off the fact that classes meet Monday through Thursday evenings, from 5-8:30 pm, I figured I was safe in betting that most of my classmates would be coming straight from their work day and busy lives and, consequently, not have much energy or desire to makes friends with the gringa (that´s me!) who wouldn´t really know the half of what was being discussed in the classroom. As it turns out, most of my 25 classmates are juggling both full-time work and our master´s program, and thus they do lead busy lives. However, from the very start I have been blown away and so blessed by my compañeros y compañeras (meaning in Spanish: classmate, partner, or companion) who have befriended me and welcomed me in ways I never expected.

It seems much more logical to me now that I have experienced it, that, of course, in a program such as ours, the people are going to be naturally more inclusive, thoughtful, ready to extend genuine help, solidarity and their friendship. In Latin culture, it is very important to spend time with each other (which brings us back to the term compañero, meaning ´companion´) and so getting to know one another, working together on projects, studying together, and--can´t forget!--the daily routine of an afternoon café (coffee) before class is a must! I´m still acclimating myself to this daily ritual, as often, in my North American mindset, my first instinct is to think, ¨but we don´t have time for coffee, people, we have so much to do!¨ It´s no shocker that the joys of friendship, accompaniment, conversation over coffee and a pastry far outweigh the relative importance of an hour more of reading before class begins.

Compañeros y compañeras Juan Carlos, Vanessa, fellow gringa Jennifer, me, Maria Helena, y Ronald.
Compañeros y compañeras from both of the master´s programs in the Institute of Latin American Studies: me, Abraham, Carlos, Yanory, Sharlyn, Fátima, and Vanessa. Represented countries pitctured are: the U.S., México, Perú, Costa Rica, El Salvador, and Puerto Rico.

We are a diverse group--which I absolutely love--with about 2/3 being Costa Ricans and the remaining 1/3 from other Latin American countries and from the U.S. (I am joined by 2 more gringos--Jennifer and Michael--both of whom have lived here for min. 1.5 years). The other non-Costa Rican latinos are from: Puerto Rico, Nicaragua, Guatemala, Perú, and Colombia. Friendships with my fellow extranjeros (foreigners) in the program formed very quickly, as all of us are new to the country. It´s interesting to learn how, even though the common language and culture between those from other Latin American countries are Spanish and Latin respectively, there is still so much variance in language use and country customs and norms. Thus, I´m usually not alone in learning what certain slang means or figuring out just how things get done around here!

Personally, I have chosen the route to further my Spanish language abilities not only by living in a Spanish speaking country, but also by studying at the graduate level--although it´s a painful process at times, what better way to truly learn a language than to immerse yourself fully in it?? At least, that´s one of my self-motivating pep talks that I resort to using on a regular basis!!

Friday, March 30, 2007

La familia Bermudez Venegas

Meet my familia tica--my Costa Rican family! I have been living with the Bermudez Venegas family since the end of January and have loved and appreciated being welcomed into their home. Homestays, I am coming to personally understand, are one of the most authentic ways to truly learn about a culture. Not only do you reside in a room of a family´s home, but you also partake in so much more: eating meals together, watching television, talking about the day´s news--both local and international, and, perhaps the most valuable component, all are able to share about their respective countries, cultures, family and friends, and laugh a lot together about language bloopers.
Something that makes me laugh each time without fail: a favorite form of flattery I receive from my tica family is when they are trying to explain something to me or are trying to remember what this or that is called and they say to me, ¨Oh, Megan, you would know how to say x; you speak better Spanish than we do!¨ Far from the truth, but kind nonetheless! My papá tico, Roy, is an electrical-mechanical engineer, my mamá tica, Gabriela, is an elementary school teacher in a public school, and my hermanita tica, Ariana, is a sweetheart of a 10 year-old, who spends her days attending a private school and then playing or attending swimming lessons in the afternoons, always eager to accompany me to the nearest internet café in town or play games together.

And the family introductions wouldn´t be complete without also introducing you to the family perro. His name is Ricky Martin. Enough said.
My host family´s home is located in San Pablo de Heredia--one of the many barrios, or neighborhoods, of the city of Heredia. It´s a pretty tranquilo little town, of course equipped with the essentials of a couple Catholic churches, a quaint central parque, a Musmanni panadería (favorite Costa Rican bakery), and the blessed soccer field. From my house, I walk 200 meters (approx. 2 blocks) to hop on a bus for the short 5 minute ride to and from my university each day. And just in case anyone will be looking to show up on my doorstep, the official directions to my homestay, according to the Costa Rican landmark system of directions, are the following: 400 meters south and 100 meters east of the Municipality in San Pablo de Heredia. It´s the house on the left-hand side of the dead-end streetwith the brownish-red gate and the pinos (pine trees). And, it goes without saying, ¡Mi casa es su casa!

Friday, March 16, 2007

Mi Hermano Tico

The story begins 9 years ago in small town Decorah, Iowa. Three-fourths of the Nelson family (i.e. the native Californians: mom Barbara, brother Tobin and myself) were experiencing our very first Midwest winter. Tobin had been studying the Spanish language for several years by this point; Megan was content in her first months of learning Norwegian. An exchange program between Decorah High School and a high school in San José, Costa Rica had taken place for years, rotating between Decorah kids spending a month in San José and Costa Rican (ticos) students spending one month in Decorah. Unfortunate seasonal differences meant the ticos spent their ¨summer¨ vacation in Decorah during the month of January, which certainly does NOT produce comparable summer temps to those of Central America!

We had the pleasure of hosting one of the seven tico students, then 17-year old Bernal Mora, in our home for the month of January. Tobin, being the Spanish speaker of the fam, was responsible for much translation and relaying of communication between us all. There were, of course, ample gestures, miming and rough (but valiant!) attempts on both ends to speak in one´s non-native language. A fun month, indeed: ping pong and fooseball in the basement, sledding, snowball fights, skiing in Wisconsin, eating chocolate chip cookies and oatmeal pancakes in Babs´ kitchen, many gatherings in homes of the host families, a trip to the Mall of America.

The following summer Tobin returned the exchange by traveling to Costa Rica, apart from an official group exchange trip, and spent a month living with Bernal and his family. He, of course, was given a whirlwind tour of this small but diverse country and was adopted into and adored by the Mora familia.

9 years later, mi hermano tico--my Costa Rican brother--and I have reunited here in Costa Rica! Who would´ve thought that I would switch from studying Norwegian to Spanish in high school and years later end up spending a year in the same Spanish-speaking country as that of my host brother! It´s been a joy to reconnect, to be able to communicate with more fluidity!, and to get to know Bernal´s family. Our first time together was a true walk down memory lane....sharing lots of laughs over stories and photos from Bernal´s time living with us in Decorah.

Siblings reunited!Bernal and his wife, Raquel, live with their three dogs in Cartago--a beautiful province of Costa Rica--on a finca (farm) where his parents as well as some other family members also have their homes. It is very common in Latin culture for families to live much closer to one another than we tend to do in the U.S. And by close, just as is the case with Bernal and his family, this typically means sharing the same house, finca, or living nearby in the same town. Thus, family life is very much integrated--everyday life is much more of an extended family experience.
La familia Mora: Bernal is the oldest of three boys--his younger brothers are Esteban (center) and Daniel (right).Another wonderful reunion: our hermano ticos (tico brothers) with their hermanitas (little sisters)--Megan and Bernal, and Erica and Diego Rivera. Diego was also one of the group of seven that lived with a host family in Decorah nine years ago. He lived with Erica Spilde and her family, and so since Erica has been living here in Costa Rica for the past year and a half, these ¨siblings¨ have also been able to reconnect! The four of us had a fun time meeting up for lunch recently--it was Bernal and Diego´s first time to see each other since they graduated from high school 9 years ago!

39 Años de Servicio--39 Years of Service

¨Hoy Rotaracts, líderes y profesionales del mañana¨
¨Today Rotaracts, Leaders and Professionals of Tomorrow¨
March 13th marked the 39th anniversary of the formation of Rotaract, a Rotary-sponsored service club for young men and women ages 18 to 30. Rotaract clubs are usually community-based or university-based and are sponsored by a local Rotary club making them true "partners in service" and key members of the Rotary family.

Through the Rotaract program, young adults not only augment their knowledge and skills, but they also address the physical and social needs of their communities while promoting international understanding and peace through a framework of friendship and service.

It just so happens that the Rotaract Club of Heredia, the town in which my university is located, was the first Rotaract Club formed in Central America. Getting involved with the Rotaracts of Heredia has been a wonderful way to meet fun, bright, and service-oriented people. The weekly meetings are held at the Casa de Cultura, in the center of Heredia, and many varied service projects and other ´business´ matters are discussed for several hours, before then piling into cars and continuing the fun at a nearby restaurant or bar to eat, drink, and be merry (i.e. sing karaoke!) together! It´s evident that this is more than just a club for the members; it´s more like a brother(and sister)hood where solid friendships are formed with the basis of ¨Service Above Self.¨

I had the opportunity to join both the Rotary and Rotaract Clubs of Heredia for a community service project of providing eye exams and, if necessary, eyeglasses to children at a local public school. The visiting partner Rotary Club for this project was from Atlanta, GA., and with them they brought 1000 pairs of used donated eyeglasses to distribute. Two professional optometrists were present to examine and diagnose, and as volunteers, we interacted with the children, helped with the initial reading of eye charts, and later handed out the prescribed glasses.

Tuesday, March 6, 2007

Club Rotario La Guaria Moravia

For the duration of my scholarship year as a Rotary Ambassadorial Scholar, I am supported by two specific clubs: my ¨sponsor club¨ in my home country and my ¨host club¨ in my host country. The two lucky clubs are, respectively, that of my hometown in Decorah, Iowa and Club La Guaria Moravia here in Costa Rica. I am supported back home by a wonderful sponsor counselor, Keith Christensen, and I have been warmly received here in Costa Rica by my host counselor, Miguel Rivera. Miguel and his wife, Emilia, were founding members of Club La Guaria and have seen it grow over the years to a club of 17 members as well as many additional Damas Rotarias, or the wives of the Rotarians in the club. Pictured above is my first visit with my host club and the exchange of our respective club flags. From L to R: Emilia Rivera, La Guaria Club President, me, and Miguel Rivera.

Sunday, February 11, 2007

Despidida

Half-way through my month-long stay in Santa Ana, two gals from Michigan arrived to live with doña Gladys for their semester of studying ecology and reforestation in Costa Rica. Sonja and Tannis brought much spunk and laughter into the home, and together we enjoyed sharing many delicious meals, exchanging stories and staying up late playing a pretty serious card game tournament of Spades. During my first weeks of dining in Costa Rica, I discovered a new favorite sound: the sound of the blender. A plethora of fresh fruits are consumed on a daily basis, not only in the form of eating juicy chunks of pineapple, papaya, melon, strawberries, etc etc, but also in the form of jugo natural, or natural juices. To make jugo natural, one simply cuts up the fresh fruit(s) of choice and plops it in the blender, adding water and then a bit of sugar to taste. Mmmmm, so refreshing!

The amount of rice that is consumed in Costa Rica is almost inconceivable. Beans, too, for that matter. If one is lucky, it is possible to consume both staples for all three meals in a day! (And, yes, I´m speaking from personal experience.) Lucky for me, I do really enjoy the national tico specialty combo of rice and beans, which is called gallo pinto (literal translation: ¨painted rooster.¨) Also lucky for me, doña Gladys is a woman who makes a mean gallo pinto! Consisting of white rice, red beans, chopped grilled onions, fresh cilantro, and red pepper, and the tico specialty secret sauce called Salsa Lizano, this dish can be doctored up countless ways and can be served for any meal, but it is most often consumed for the breakfast meal. And thus, for my final meal in the kitchen of doña Gladys , I was served a delicious gallo pinto for breakfast. As you can see below, not only was I served gallo pinto, but also eggs, toast, watermelon, fresh papaya juice (made in the blender, of course!), and a surprise treat of warm banana cake. She didn´t make it easy for me to leave!! My first experience living with a host-stay family was a wonderful one--I was blessed not only with the opportunity to live with doña Gladys and her son Cesar, but also to meet and spend time with her other three children and their children as well. I was welcomed into a family for a relatively short amount of time, and I did learn that certain boundaries realistically come with such an experience, but I left feeling like part of their extended family. On the morning of my departure, doña Gladys made sure I knew there would always be a bed for me to sleep in and food on the stove for me to enjoy whenever I am able to visit. My despidida--my goodbye-- was made complete with a kiss on the cheek and the sign of the cross made over me, sending me with the accompaniment of God.

Gamolotillo

We thought that we would be spending the weekend relaxing at the beach, riding horses and spending time with Meghan´s Rotary host counselor and family friends of his. (Note: Since arriving in Costa Rica, I´ve quickly learned that it is essential that I give up trying to envision what my adventures may be like before actually living them, as they have all turned out remarkably different--and often bigger and better!--than what I was expecting.) Our weekend trip to the beach turned out to be a weekend spent up, up, up in the mountains, with ocean views to be seen while climbing higher and higher. To reach our destination, a road like you wouldn´t believe was traversed, in a 4X4 of course, for several hours, leaving the passengers of the vehicle with aching backs from being jostled around so much. With the windows rolled down, the smell of fresh mountain air was potent and the cool dampness of the mist from the clouds we were traveling through was refreshing.

Welcome to Gamolotillo, a small town of about 200 people. An agricultural-based community, the groves of mangoes, papayas, and bananas as well as livestock farms are plentiful. Although there are no phones or internet connections to be found for miles, the residents of Gamolotillo have all they need: una iglesia (church), una pulperia (corner store), una cancha de fùtbol (soccer field), un bar, and a multi-purpose town hall. What´s more is the vegetation is lush (reminding me of my time in Ecuador´s Amazon jungle), a pure mountain river runs through the town, and brilliant green and red parrots are to be seen and heard, flying high in pairs.

After being awakened by the rooster´s morning song and enjoying a delicious breakfast, Meghan and I were offered the ¨opportunity¨ to ride horses down to the river where we were to spend the day, while the remainder of our new friends drove with a trailer full of a canopy tent, chairs, a grill for a BBQ lunch, and two dogs, anxious for their turn to splash around in the river. Meghan, being the more experienced horseback rider, mounted a calm white beauty, while I cautiously mounted a single-stirruped black beast, who I quickly deemed ¨el rebelde¨, the ¨rebellious one.¨ When el rebelde behaved himself, the 3km ride to the river was amazingly picturesque and peaceful. Our friend, Rafa, graciously accompanied us on foot, holding my stirrup-less foot´s sandal and telling us all we needed to know about the vegetation and livestock we were passing. I held on tight as we, several times, had to coax our horses to walk through rather deep puddles of water on the path to the river. We arrived safe and sound, my heart beating quite a bit faster than normal, and we dismounted to enjoy a fun day of playing in the river, jumping off the river bank, eating mucho grilled meat and warm tortillas as well as fresh mangoes and papayas, picked from nearby trees.
I wasn´t kidding about el rebelde! Thankfully he did no such thing while I was riding him!


We returned from our day playing at the river, just in time to mosey over to the soccer field to see if any action was going on. We started kicking the ball around with a group of boys who were playing before heading over to the town hall for the evening´s fiesta. My first real game of soccer since arriving into a fùtbol-crazed part of the world, and man was it good! These muchachos were loving not only having a couple gringas visit their small town, but more so having one that wanted to play soccer with them! And I was loving that they were sweet enough to set up assist after assist for me to score gooooooooollllllls! :)

We lucked out on the timing of our weekend visit, as there was a fiesta de cumpleaños, a birthday party, held in the town hall, that the entire town was invited to attend! It turned out that the birthday boy was turning 70-years old and that he was from Santa Ana, the town where I was, at the time, living and studying at language school. Many of those in attendance had driven from Santa Ana for this party, including one of the teachers from the language school! We ate and danced and met many folks, including a flock of young ones who were delighted to have us treat them to ice cream at the corner store. The night did not end with the party, oh no!, but instead continued at the only bar in town where we proceeded to dance and sing karaoke for hours! As our friend, Rafa, was teaching me how to dance a new dance, I exclaimed, in spanish: ¨I can´t move my notebooks like you can!¨ Cuadernos (notebooks), caderas (hips).... good one Megan!

The following day we spent the morning at the river again and then made the trek to see the town waterfall. We could only drive so far, as a huge tree had fallen, who knows how long ago, and was blocking the path. When we arrived, we eased our way into the icy cool water at the base of the waterfall and had fun swimming underneath the powerfully strong fall. Rafa offered to lead us to the top with him, and we gladly accepted his offer. When we reached the top of the waterfall we could then see another waterfall and its pool of water. It was an exhilarating moment, although little did I know, a more exhilarating one was to follow. We began our descent, grabbing on to tree branches and thick vines and making sure of our footing. I was the last in line, behind Meghan, and about half way down the mountain I looked down and saw a little snake coiled up at my feet. I alerted Meghan, and when I did the snake slithered a mere several inches away from me and then stopped. Meghan, who had been taking her sweet time to descend, was miraculously at the base of the mountain in record time! I was instructed to stand still and not say a word. Rafa climbed back up to where I was, had a stick in one hand to use with the snake if need be, and with his other hand he helped me down and around him to safety. As I had been standing with the snake inches from my sandaled feet and bare legs, I kept telling myself, ¨it´s just a little guy, no big deal.¨ Once I reached the bottom of the hill, I learned, however, that I had been inches away from one of Costa Rica´s most poisonous snakes--the terciopelo.

A weekend of adventure and numerous surprises, Gamolotillo is a town I surely won´t forget!